Here I am in Los Angeles, having returned from Italy only a few weeks ago and already thinking about returning to Italy in the fall. I am missing one of my favorite times in Rome. Summer. August in Rome is a really special time. Any knowledgeable tourist knows if possible to avoid August in Rome. It is really hot and humid. There are still many places that close for some portion of the month (although less than in years past). Anyone who lives in Italy knows that most people who can, leave the city for cooler, less humid climes. But there are many of us who have lived there who love the month for the benefits of August in a city that seems so empty you can always find a parking place, a city that reminds you of less populated ages. It is quite special. There is a slowing of everything that allows you to savor the city even more than usual.
Then there is Ferragosto, the middle of August holiday, August 15th. It is the celebration of the Assumption of Mary as well as the earlier Roman holiday of Emperor Augustus. Since Roman times it was the official start of summer holidays and it still means most families take the holiday off for a trip to the country for a cooler day with a picnic to enjoy together.
If you are in Rome, the Gran Ballo di Ferragosto with live music and dancing in the piazze is not to be missed. Many of the cultural locations, museums, tourist attractions, etc. do stay open even though they normally would close on this type of holiday.
There are still tourists around, although less than you might think since most are either just passing through Rome on a quick tour stop on cruises or a one or two day stay, so there are really much less than many other months. It is an easy walking month for sure. Just remember to keep an empty water bottle to fill at the many fountains as you walk through town, a good head covering and lots of sun screen.
Be sure to stop by Campo dei Fiori Market and say hi to Mauro Berardi for me and see how his bancarella has expanded. He has Marco, his son, now with a booth handling sandwiches and meats like porchetta and other meats, as well as condiments. But, as always, his spice mixes are his crowning achievements. I always have them available here in the United States if you run low. Just drop me an email and I will happily send you information on replacing them for you. Expressly Italian is your source for unique Italian specialties that are not found in the U.S. that I bring directly from the producers to you here. Send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org for more information,